The Kriegsmarine bicorne hat represents one of the most characteristic and formal pieces of headgear worn by the German Navy during the Third Reich era. This distinctive form of officer's service hat was exclusively reserved for high-ranking officers of the Kriegsmarine and was worn on particularly ceremonial occasions and gala events.
The tradition of the bicorne hat dates back to the Napoleonic era and was adopted by many European navies. In German naval tradition, the bicorne had already played a significant role in the Imperial Navy (Kaiserliche Marine) and was retained as part of the official full dress uniform after the founding of the Kriegsmarine in 1935.
The bicorne described here, dating from around 1939, displays the characteristic features of this prestigious headgear. The black needle felt covering formed the foundation of the hat and conformed to the strict regulations of the Kriegsmarine uniform. The black grosgrain ribbon on the sides served not only as a decorative element but also to reinforce the characteristic upturned brims.
Particularly significant was the cockade in the Reich colors of black-white-red, made from silk and artfully folded. This cockade symbolized national allegiance and was a mandatory element of all German military headgear of this period. The color combination dated back to the tradition of the German Empire and had been reintroduced as official Reich colors in 1933.
The gold bullion, an elaborately worked gold embroidery or gold wire wrapping, along with the large gilt button bearing the applied national eagle (Hoheitsadler), indicated rank and membership in the Wehrmacht. The national eagle, which held the swastika in its talons, was the official symbol of the Wehrmacht from 1935 onward and appeared on all military insignia and uniform items.
The interior fittings of the bicorne testified to the high quality of this officer's headgear. The brown sweatband leather on the inner rim provided wearing comfort and prevented perspiration from damaging the outer material. The white silk lining was a mark of exclusivity and corresponded to the high standard expected for officers' attire.
The stated size 57 was a common head size and corresponded to the German hat sizing system still used today. Bicornes were typically custom-made or at least individually fitted to ensure a perfect fit.
The wearing regulations for the bicorne were precisely defined in the Kriegsmarine's uniform regulations. It was worn exclusively with full dress uniform, which was prescribed for special military ceremonies, state receptions, official balls, and similar occasions. The bicorne was a privilege of officers above a certain rank, with the exact rank regulations detailed in the Kriegsmarine's clothing regulations.
The manufacture of such bicornes was carried out by specialized military tailors and approved Wehrmacht suppliers. The quality and workmanship had to meet strict regulations, and each piece was carefully inspected before being approved for service.
Historically, the period around 1939 marks a significant turning point in German history. This year saw the beginning of World War II with the invasion of Poland on September 1, 1939. The Kriegsmarine, under the command of Grand Admiral Erich Raeder, was at this time in a phase of intensive rearmament, although still far from the planned strength of the so-called Z-Plan.
Bicornes like the example described were worn increasingly rarely during the war, as ceremonial occasions decreased with the progression of the war and production of full dress uniform components was restricted due to wartime conditions. Nevertheless, they officially remained part of the uniform and were worn on appropriate occasions until the end of the war.
The craftsmanship evident in such pieces reflects the high standards maintained for officers' equipment. Each bicorne required skilled artisans who specialized in military millinery, and the materials used were of the finest quality available. The combination of functional design and ceremonial elegance exemplified the Kriegsmarine's emphasis on tradition and military bearing.
Today, such original Kriegsmarine bicornes are rare collectors' items that provide valuable insights into uniform history and military tradition. They document the artisanal quality and formal strictness of military clothing regulations of that era and serve as important witnesses to naval history.
