The Prussian traveling bicorn for diplomats and state officials represents a fascinating chapter in Prussian administrative and diplomatic culture of the 19th century. This particular form of bicorn, also known as Chapeau claque or collapsible hat, combined practical functionality with the strict requirements of Prussian dress codes.
In the German Empire after 1871, and even in the decades before, Prussian state officials and diplomats were subject to precise dress regulations. The uniform regulations (Adjustierungsvorschriften) governed down to the smallest detail which uniform pieces and civilian dress were to be worn on which occasions. The bicorn, originally from the military tradition of the 18th century, had evolved in the 19th century into an indispensable component of civil state dress.
The collapsible construction of this hat form represented a significant innovation. During the increasing travel activity of the 19th century, especially after the expansion of railway networks from the 1840s onward, diplomats and senior officials needed a practical solution for transporting their formal headgear. The traveling bicorn could be folded and stored in a special box without losing its shape – a crucial advantage over rigid variants.
The Prussian cockade on the right side of the hat was the clearly visible sign of state affiliation. Made in the characteristic black-and-white colors of Prussia, it symbolized loyalty to the crown and state. The golden agraffe, a decorative loop or clasp, as well as the golden tassels in the hat brims, indicated the high rank of the wearer.
Particularly significant is the state official button made of tombac. Tombac, a copper-zinc alloy with a gold-like appearance, was frequently used for official uniform buttons. The design of these buttons was strictly regulated and distinguished between different administrative branches and rank levels. State officials wore specific button patterns that differed from those of military or municipal officials.
The manufacturer Eduard Sachs in Berlin was among the renowned suppliers of uniform accessories and official dress in late 19th-century Prussia. Berlin, as the capital of the Kingdom and later the German Empire, housed numerous specialized manufactories that worked exclusively for the court, ministries, and diplomatic corps. These firms guaranteed through their expertise the exact compliance with regulations.
The dating around 1870/80 falls within a significant epoch. After the founding of the Reich in 1871, Prussia remained the dominant constituent state of the German Empire. Prussian administrative structures and dress codes influenced the entire Reich administration. Diplomats of the Empire frequently wore uniforms and insignia following Prussian models, even if they came from other German states.
The black silk lining and high-quality needle felt testify to the quality of this official dress. Needle felt was the preferred material for official headgear because it was dimensionally stable, weather-resistant, and durable. The processing required craftsmanship of the highest quality.
The use of such bicorns was precisely regulated. At court balls, diplomatic receptions, official state audiences, and other ceremonial occasions, wearing them was mandatory. Etiquette also determined when the hat was to be worn, carried under the arm, or removed. These complex rules were part of an elaborate system of courtly and administrative representation.
The original box in which the bicorn was stored is of considerable historical value. These storage boxes were specially developed for the collapsible construction and protected the delicate felt from damage and dust. The preservation of this box indicates careful storage over generations.
After the end of the monarchy in 1918, these uniform pieces lost their official function. The Weimar Republic abolished monarchical dress codes, and the bicorn disappeared from official use. Today, well-preserved specimens with manufacturer designation and original accessories are significant testimonies to Prussian administrative culture and courtly society of the 19th century.
This object documents not only artisanal excellence but also the importance of visual representation of power and status in the Prussian-German state tradition. It recalls an era when clothing and uniforming were central elements of state order and social hierarchy.
