The development of German military camouflage during the Second World War represents one of the most innovative chapters in the history of combat attire. At the heart of this story stands Johann Georg Otto Schick, a Munich art professor and director of the German camouflage research unit, who at the request of SS Major Wim Brandt in the mid-to-late 1930s created a series of groundbreaking camouflage patterns. Schick’s research into the effect of light on trees across different seasons led to the development of reversible camouflage designs that could serve soldiers in both spring/summer and autumn/winter environments. In 1937, these patterns were field tested by the SS-VT Deutschland regiment, yielding an estimated 15 percent reduction in casualties — a remarkable figure that immediately justified the program’s expansion.
By 1938, reversible spring/autumn helmet covers, smocks, and face masks had been patented exclusively for the Waffen-SS. Production of camouflage items commenced in November 1938 through the firms Warei, Forster, and Joring. By June 1940, machine printing had taken over the manufacturing process, and 33,000 smocks were produced for the Waffen-SS. Distribution was ostensibly limited to the Waffen-SS due to a patent held by Schick since 1938, though the Hermann Göring Division (a Luftwaffe unit) also received large amounts of this camouflage pattern, probably through a barter agreement with the SS.
The Rauchtarnmuster Pattern
The Rauchtarnmuster, known in English as the “Blurred Edge” pattern (also sometimes called the “smoke camouflage pattern”), is described as a variant of the Platanenmuster (Plane Tree pattern). It shares identical base colors with the Platanenmuster but replaces the spotted plane tree overprint with a smoky black overprint, creating the distinctive blurred effect that gives the pattern its name. The design consists of a three-color Oak Leaf base overlaid with a black two-tone shadow. Initially thought to be a printing error, the Rauchtarnmuster proved especially effective in hazy environments and was one of the first German patterns produced using machine rollers. Despite its relatively long period of use, the pattern is described as comparatively rare. It was employed not only on smocks but also on helmet covers, Zeltbahn shelter halves, and field caps.
The Model 1942 Smock
The M42 camouflage smock represented a significant improvement over the earlier M38 model. The redesign produced a slimmer-fitting garment with a raised waistband and, crucially, added two horizontal waist pockets — a practical enhancement that addressed a notable deficiency of the M38. The specimen described here represents the Type 1 M42, characterized by horizontal lower pockets at waist level with button closures. Like all M42 smocks, it was designed as a reversible pullover-style garment, with one side printed in spring/summer green tones and the reverse in autumn/winter brown tones.
Standard features included elasticated cuffs and waist, a drawstring closure at the neck with hand-embroidered eyelets, and foliage loops on the shoulders for attaching natural camouflage material. The buttons were typically grey painted metal with a stipple pattern. As a camouflage overgarment designed to be worn over the standard Feldgrau (field grey) wool service uniform, the smock typically did not feature rank insignia or unit symbols.
Materials and Production
M42 smocks were manufactured in factories throughout Germany from 1942 to 1944, with large numbers also produced in concentration camps. The material was initially Makostoff (a smooth linen-based cotton material) or cotton poplin, printed in the Rauchtarnmuster pattern. In January 1943, supplies of high-quality waterproof cotton duck ran out and were replaced by non-waterproof cotton drill cloth (HBT — Herringbone Twill). The pockets of this particular example are described as being made from dark green Drillich (drill cloth).
Frontline Use
The M42 smock was used exclusively by Waffen-SS combat units across all fronts from 1942 until the end of the war in 1945. Documented use includes the SS-Totenkopf Division and the SS-Division Nord, among numerous other formations. Although the M42 was formally replaced in production by uniforms in the Erbsenmuster (Pea Dot) pattern in 1944, it remained in widespread use as standard battledress for SS infantrymen until Germany’s capitulation.
This Specimen
The smock presented here bears several hallmarks of genuine wartime field use. The foliage loops on the shoulders have been cleanly removed, the original chest lacing has been replaced with an old leather lace from a boot, the elastic bands in the sleeves and waist are still present but no longer functional, and an old wartime repair patch is visible under the left armpit. The piece is described as being in good, untouched original condition despite signs of wear.
For the last years of its known history, this smock was exhibited at the Eyewitness Museum in Beek, Netherlands. The museum closed on October 1, 2022, following significant setbacks including a major theft in August 2020 and the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. After closure, part of the museum’s collection was transferred to the Oorlogsmuseum (War Museum) Overloon in the Netherlands.
Collecting Significance
Original M42 smocks in the Blurred Edge pattern are now considered highly sought-after collector’s items and are regarded as rare. While modern reproductions are widely produced for reenactors, authentic wartime examples with documented provenance — such as this piece with its museum exhibition history — command particular interest among serious collectors. As a footnote to the enduring influence of Schick’s designs, the Russian military later adopted a copy of the Eichenlaubmuster (Oak Leaf pattern) used on the M42 smock, designating it as “Partizan” camouflage.
